So I nearly didn’t write a blog cos I got pissed off earlier
last week and had some shitty news then I thought it would consume the next
blog and there would be an underlying tone of anger, except, I’ve decided to
just get over it because there is a story here that needs to be told. Having been to Croatia numerous times already, and twice to
Slovenia, I thought it was time to explore the wider Former Yugoslavia. On the
9th October, after two days of re-set in Londres to basically wash
ALL my clothes from South America and eat at Roxies. I landed in Dubrovnik, a
place I’ve been numerous times before. My only goal of the trip was to eat
Grilled Octopus every day.
I walked to the AirBnb Margarita (which I can highly
recommend), even though I split my jeans unnecessarily jumping up a fence to
get to my AirBnb and misconstrued the instructions, attending to every large
tree in the vicinity before getting to the right one by simply using Google Maps,
I was in high spirits, albeit a little scared my arse was hanging out whilst
greeting my host with my Langchump covering the front of me to prevent
flashing. . Lunchtime, I achieved my goal when I visited the number 1
TripAdvisor restaurant and accompanied my delicious tentacles with some local
wine in my favourite kind of glass that fits your nose in it. I even ignored
the fact I’d split my jeans (probably attributed to the additional blubber
obtained from South America) and had a chocolate lava cake for dessert.
The weather was super
so I walked to the beach and spent all day there and managed a snooze, as again
I’d had a 4:30am Uber. After, I stupidly went and had dinner, Gnocchi and even
dessert before I lumped my fat arse back for some rest before the bus to
Montenegro.

We started the next perfect day together with eggs bene at a
local restaurant called Astoria, where I saved his life from two wasp stings by
tending to him with ice and antihistamine, before we trekked up the castle on
the hill – up the local ‘free entry’ way. During this hike, we met an almost 79
year old lady from Russia powering up. It made me remember the strong ladies
I’ve had and lucky to have in my life, picturing a determined Nonna and Granny.
We also had a third wheel on our journey, an Indian guy, who was barely Indian
as he didn’t really talk about cricket. He told us about a place up the
mountain that sold fresh cheese so we were searching for the place when I
spotted a baby brown snake and realised, the search was more perilous than I’d
hoped with the overgrown grass surrounds. We found the place and were greeted by an old drunk
handing us Rakija and cheese and meat platter that was bought from a store,
contrary to the homemade statement. I had enough of fake Indian and we set off
leaving him in our wake, Farley trying to convince me to go to the steep trail
right to the top to see the view ‘opened up’ to which I shut him down saying
there was ‘no fucking way’ I was doing more than the bare minimum and we trot
off to the castle. We took a few quick snaps and before heading down the usual
tourist way which was thousands of steps. I really hated this, but I was
grateful for my long legged stride as it seemed to work with pace. Worst part
was I kept telling him how awful it was and asking if it would ever end. He
kindly laughed before we set off to the bus to head to the beach, which was
also my idea. During the bus ride we worked out that we grew up close, he in
Lakes Entrance and me obvs in Traralgon, albeit a few years apart. I was super
impressed when I found out he had studied Mechatronics, as per my fav first
ever housemate Caz Tan (Birdsong).

I took myself out for a nice dinner then came back to the
hostel to start to read the book I’d carted across South America and hadn’t
started and try get an early night. Only problem with my double bed score, was
that there was an elderly lady from Germany that snored the house down.
Introduce me, world’s worst sleeper and the first of my restless nights. The
next day I did the walking tour and heard the Serb side of history. Blamed for
the war, the country economy plummeted, the dollar exponentially falling up to
16 % daily, the country was thrown in to despair. The local mafia became rich,
whilst everyone else barely fed themselves. I was somewhat preoccupied during
the tour as I hadn’t yet organised the car to Sarajevo the next day. There was
no doubt Belgrade was awesome and there was an awesome floating nightlife that
evening. I will definitely come back again one day and spend more time there. I
launched myself across town that night in search to fulfil my craving for thai
food. There were only two in the city so I walked 2.8 miles across highways and
finally got my pad thai. Although it was almost darkness, and I didn’t feel too
unsafe, I thought it best I do their equivalent of Uber home and had to double
check when a very youthful tall good looking guy picked me up instead of the
old dude in the pic I was expected. The number plates matched though so I got
in and hot young man explained it was his dad’s heap of junk he was driving. Hot
guy aka son of Namanja was a basketball coach. His mum and sister were
architects and that’s all I could remember. He dropped me off and I cursing
myself I didn’t get his details.

In Sarajevo I arrived super tired and went for dinner at the Singing Nettle for dinner. I didn’t love it and it was my second most expensive meal to date, so rather dejected I headed back and was again really happy to realise I was in a room with a Taiwanese snorer this time. I kept daydreaming jumping the 100m from my top bunk to grab ear plugs for awhile before I finally succumbed to reception and begged for some pluggers. My third straight night with a snoring female was getting me down. I decided as she was also staying the next night, I needed to get more drunk so joined forces with some others at the hostel- a rude Norweigan called Janis and a top knotted swede called Jeff. There was also a miscellaneous annoying Kiwi (and made me have a little hatred for my beloved kiwis) and a young American girl. But first that day, I started off with Eggs Bene and a walking tour of the city that began at 10am in front of the old cathedral with the most amazing Pope John Paul statue. Again, I thought of Nonna.
Sarajevo - what a stunning city. The mixture of religious
harmony is absolutely breath taking. Much akin to Jerusalem. The old town and
the new town, blue eyed Muslims, humans that look like me, speaking Bosnian.
The walking tour was hosted by a nutcase guide called Enes. He was however
awesome, explaining the wars. We saw where WW2 began, with the massacre of
Franz Ferdinand (not the singer), and heard stories of courage, such as when
Hitler sent his soldiers to get the Hagada book at the Jewish temple and a
Muslim grabbed the book, told the soldier it had already been given to the
Nazis and was instead taken to the Muslim Mosque and hidden with the Koran.
We were then told about 1992- 1995 - the city circled by
Serbs and the massacres that took place. For such a recent history, I don’t
believe we know enough about it and cannot even begin to understand how people
of the one race get fuelled by hubris led propaganda machines that call themselves
Politian’s and turn neighbours against each other. For one thing was certain,
this was not a religious war. Not everyone wanted a Serbia or Croatia, many
wanted a Yugoslavia. However, after the prosperity of Yugoslavia and the death
of Tito, hatred was bred, and for some reason, Serbia decided to attack. The
viciousness of the massacres that took place at Srebrenica under the UN watch
is an atrocity. The murder of children, civilians, absolutely heart breaking.
You could tell the prosperity of the people, for my by their watches, Longines,
Omega’s alongside childrens teddy bears, bloodstained clothes, contained in the
museum of Genocide, which we visited afterwards. The US were close to
preventing one of the massacres by commencing bombing, but the French called it
off (seriously, can the French just give up on politics already?!). Ironically
when that bombing did commence, it ended the war, alongside the Croatian army-
which I’ll get in to after.
Mostar |
I decided to skip more doom and gloom re the tunnels which
apparently was a massive fail on my part however I did and instead got drunk
with the guys at the hostel – a Swede and Dutchy, downing Rakia and getting a
kebab from a blue eyed white guy – a first for me, before attempting a sleep
with the Taiwan snoring engine. This time, the sleep again failed me, and with
the 5:45am wake up to catch the 7am scenic train to Mostar, I was scared I
would miss the journey through sheer exhaustion leading to sleep on the train.
The Northern hemisphere lads and I made it and I managed a movie (The Book
Thief, great film and has my fav actor Geoffrey Rush in it) and stayed awake
for the scenery. The windows were quite dirty, so there was no way you could
take photos, though it really pissed me off that people spent their time trying
to video or photo it on their phones, rather than look at the view with their
eyes. I mean, their footage will be garbage, what you see through the phone is
garbage, you’ll never watch it through, how about just use your eyes and enjoy
it for you? So that’s what I did.
Maddy, the young Aussie girl in Kotor recommended hostel Majdas in Mostar. I had also arranged a 12-hour tour of Bosnia via email that started as soon as I arrived, so as soon as I got to the hostel, I promptly upgraded to a private and was given some amazing breakfast and shown to my room for an hour prior to the tour starting. I also bumped in to some mates I’d met in Kotor from Tassie that had committed to jumping the bridge – they did and managed to do so injury free. The tour was ran by Majda’s brother Bata, whose name should actually by Batty. He was absolutely nuts! But so glad that I did it. He told us about how after the Serbs came to Mostar and the Croatians then came in and saved them. They then knifed them in the back, and started doing what the Serbs did, massacring them, trying to take Bosnia. He was smuggled out by a Croatian Bosnian in a fake ambulance and sent to Sweden. It was mere fate a Croat from his school recognised him and saved him from a mass grave. Post war, he went to thank the man, but was told his fate was not so good. We were shown how Mostar is divided, strangely even despite the massacres and treatment, Croatia and Serbia still have a stake in the Bosnian parliament, and one half of Mostar is Croatian Bosnian, and is much more advanced than the Bosnian side. He thinks it is a message. I don’t think he is a stupid as his batty behaviour presents. The overarching similarity between Batty Bata and Enes is the same message - both agree – contrary to the world propaganda, this was not a religious war (they have lived harmoniously for over a thousand years, having 50% mixed marriage pre-war), this is not a civil war, this was bigger. War crimes were committed and post war, the politicians responsible including Milsovic, Martic, Babic, Karadzic, Mladic have all been prosecuted. A Bosnian Serb led the Bosnians at the time and saved Sarajevo. This for me had too many similarities with whatever is going on between Israel and Palestine. When you see Jerusalem and Sarajevo and how harmonious the old towns are – Jews, Christians and Muslims, you realise we are all swallowing the same pill, we are all spiders in the same misleading web. The fact that humans threw loaded truck tyres down the hill to the city valleys to murder, the rapes, the murder, the genocide and still, what I will say, is the Bosnians are the most friendly in this Yugonook. Yeah, they are bonkers, but their humour is incredible, their resilience is unsurpassed.

The next day we got up and was served an amazing breaky.
After I joined forces with my new mate the American brother and sister due Liza
and Nick, the Swede and the Dutchie (and some other American chick I didn’t really
get to know), then we headed back to Blagaj by bus to do the hike up the
mountain to the last Bosnian Kings castle. After we donned head scarf and a wrap dresses we were
allowed to visit the Monastery which impressively sits adjacent to the cave, under
the clifftop. The cave is a mystery in itself, a pilgrimage for many, the water
source isn’t immediately known, however it has since been revealed to be deep
and some 19kms wide. I had some water and made a wish. What a blessed place. I
hope it knows peace in my lifetime and many more. I hope it returns to the
former 50/50 marriage it was and Yugoslavia remembers Bosnia. Sadly, having
seen Palestine and knowing our government locks up innocents abroad, I don’t
think we ever will stop behaving badly, but I hope we do. I will come
back and do succeed in my quest to eat Octopus every day... what an amazing place.